:root{--ink:#211f18;--sage:#5f6b42;--gold:#b99b60;--cream:#f7f3ea;--paper:#fffdf8;--line:#dbd3c2;--muted:#615f55}
*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth}body{margin:0;background:var(--cream);color:var(--ink);font:400 16px/1.85 Vazirmatn,system-ui,sans-serif}a{color:inherit}img{max-width:100%;display:block}h1,h2,h3,h4,p{margin-top:0}.wrap{width:min(100% - 40px,1160px);margin-inline:auto}.skip{position:absolute;inset-block-start:-100px;inset-inline-start:16px;background:#fff;padding:10px;z-index:10}.skip:focus{inset-block-start:8px}:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--sage);outline-offset:3px}
.site-head{background:var(--paper);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.head-row{min-height:78px;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:20px}.brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:10px;text-decoration:none;font:21px/1.1 Marcellus,serif;letter-spacing:2px}.brand small{display:block;margin-top:6px;font:500 10px/1.4 Vazirmatn,sans-serif;letter-spacing:0;color:var(--sage)}.head-actions{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:18px}.locale{display:flex;gap:5px;direction:ltr}.locale a,.back{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;min-width:44px;min-height:44px;border-radius:25px;text-decoration:none;font-size:13px;font-weight:600}.locale a[aria-current]{background:var(--sage);color:#fff}.locale a:hover,.back:hover{background:#e6e8da}.locale a[aria-current]:hover{background:var(--sage)}.back{padding-inline:16px;border:1px solid var(--line)}
.hero{position:relative;min-height:470px;overflow:hidden;background:#2b3026;color:#fff}.hero-img{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;opacity:.32}.hero:after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(90deg,rgba(24,29,21,.36),rgba(24,29,21,.8))}.hero-inner{position:relative;z-index:1;padding-block:92px}.eyebrow,.kicker{color:var(--sage);font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.07em;font-size:12px}.hero .eyebrow{color:#e8d6a7}.hero h1{font-size:clamp(42px,6vw,78px);line-height:1.3;margin:12px 0 18px}.intro{max-width:720px;font-size:18px;line-height:2;color:#f4f0e7}.hero-links{display:flex;gap:12px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:30px}.pill{border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.65);border-radius:28px;padding:9px 22px;min-height:44px;text-decoration:none;font-weight:600}.pill.primary{background:var(--paper);border-color:var(--paper);color:var(--ink)}.pill:hover{transform:translateY(-2px)}
.section{padding-block:76px}.section-head{margin-bottom:34px}.section-head h2{font-size:clamp(29px,4vw,44px);line-height:1.4;margin:7px 0}.section-head p:not(.eyebrow){color:var(--muted);max-width:720px}.story{background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:24px;overflow:hidden;margin-bottom:34px;box-shadow:0 20px 45px -35px #352d22;scroll-margin-top:24px}.story-head{padding:24px 30px 10px}.story-head h3{font-size:clamp(24px,3vw,34px);margin:4px 0 10px}.pair{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:12px;padding:0 18px}.pair figure{margin:0;min-width:0;background:#efeadf;border-radius:15px;overflow:hidden}.pair img{width:100%;height:315px;object-fit:cover}.pair figcaption{padding:12px 16px 16px;color:var(--muted);font-size:12px;line-height:1.7}.pair figcaption strong{color:var(--ink);font-size:14px}.pair figcaption a{color:var(--sage);text-underline-offset:3px}.story-foot{padding:24px 30px 30px;display:flex;align-items:end;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px}.story-foot h4{font-size:17px;margin-bottom:6px}.story-foot p{max-width:750px;margin:0;color:#49473d;line-height:2}.source{white-space:nowrap;font-size:13px;color:var(--sage);font-weight:600;text-underline-offset:4px}
.directory-section{background:#eae5d9;padding-block:70px}.directory-section h3{font-size:22px;margin:40px 0 14px}.directory-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:10px;padding:0;margin:0;list-style:none}.directory-grid li{min-width:0}.directory-grid a,.directory-item{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:12px;min-height:64px;padding:14px 17px;background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:14px;text-decoration:none;font-weight:600}.directory-grid a:hover{border-color:var(--sage);box-shadow:0 8px 20px -18px #211f18}.num{font:15px Marcellus,serif;color:var(--sage);direction:ltr}.arrow{margin-inline-start:auto;color:var(--sage)}.closing{padding-block:65px}.closing h2{font-size:28px}.closing p{max-width:820px;color:var(--muted)}.references{font-size:13px;margin-top:25px}.references a{color:var(--sage);text-underline-offset:4px}footer{background:#24271e;color:#eee;padding:25px 0}.footer-row{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:16px;font-size:13px}.footer-row>span:first-child{font:24px Marcellus,serif;letter-spacing:2px}.footer-row a{color:#eee}
@media(max-width:780px){.wrap{width:min(100% - 30px,1160px)}.head-row{min-height:68px}.back{display:none}.hero{min-height:430px}.hero-inner{padding-block:70px}.intro{font-size:16px}.pair img{height:245px}.directory-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}.story-foot{display:block}.source{display:inline-block;margin-top:14px;white-space:normal}}
@media(max-width:560px){.brand{font-size:16px;letter-spacing:1px}.brand img{width:32px;height:32px}.brand small{font-size:8px}.head-actions{gap:0}.locale a{min-width:39px}.hero-inner{padding-block:65px}.section{padding-block:50px}.story-head{padding:18px 18px 7px}.pair{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:9px;padding:0 10px}.pair img{height:245px}.story-foot{padding:20px 18px 25px}.directory-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.directory-section{padding-block:50px}.footer-row{flex-wrap:wrap}.footer-row>span:nth-child(2){order:3;width:100%}}
/* Keep photo-rights details available without turning editorial copy into a production note. */
.photo-credits{padding:0 30px 22px;color:var(--muted);font-size:12px}
.photo-credits summary{display:inline-block;cursor:pointer;color:var(--sage);text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}
.photo-credits p{margin:10px 0 0;line-height:1.8}
.photo-credits a{color:var(--sage);text-underline-offset:3px}
.place-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:14px}
.place-note{padding:22px 25px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:17px;background:var(--paper);scroll-margin-top:24px}
.place-note h3{font-size:20px;margin:0 0 7px}
.place-note p{margin:0;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.9}
.language-menu .language-trigger{cursor:pointer}
@media(max-width:780px){.place-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.photo-credits{padding-inline:18px}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}.pill:hover{transform:none}}